Now in its 25th year, Niman Ranch is a network of more than 600 small and mid-size farmers and ranchers across the United States who all adhere to high standards of sustainable and humane farming practices. In exchange, the farmers receive a guaranteed market for their products and an invaluable support system.

I have been fortunate to call Niman Ranch Founding Hog Farmer Paul Willis a friend for many years, and I still get emotional at this event.

Paul and Niman Ranch have an incredible story—one that’s interwoven with the future of the food system. Most of the multi-generational farmers the company brings together say that they wouldn’t be able to raise hogs anymore if it weren’t for Niman Ranch.

Ron Mardesen, Niman farmer for more than 21 years, used to stay up at night worrying about losing his farm. But now, he says that he confidently plans for the future. Deleana and Tim Roseland say that working with Niman completely changed their lives. Now, they plan to actually retire and pass their farm to their son, a 4th-generation farmer and U.S. Army veteran.

According to the U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA), the number of farms with hogs in the U.S. declined by more than 70 percent from 1990 to 2022. But the Niman Ranch network weathered the hog market crash of 1998—a time when most other farmers were paid as little as 8 cents per pound for their products, but Niman paid 43.5 cents—as well as the COVID-19 crisis.

“When I met Paul, the sense I got was desperation in farming,” Ed Behr says. “Now, I see all these happy people that are succeeding.”

We need more storytellers like Ed to help shine light on the humans behind our favorite products—and we also need to recognize the people behind our favorite recipes.

Toni Tipton-Martin, a James Beard Award-winning journalist and Editor-in-Chief of Cook’s Country, works to dispel misconceptions about the origin of foods and celebrate African Americans’ incredible resilience within the food system. These are stories that are too often ignored and forgotten.

“Africans are the only community that did not arrive here as immigrants, we were not allowed to outwardly maintain our food traditions,” Toni says.

I am inspired by more and more chefs who are stepping up and using their platforms to celebrate the rich history of recipes and the farmers who grow and raise our food.

Adrian Lipscombe, Chef and Founder of the 40 Acres Project, which preserves the legacy of Black farmers and foodways, says that, for her, “the farmer is a part of the restaurant.” For Lamar Moore, James Beard Ambassador and Executive Chef at Bronzeville Winery in Chicago, who grew up on a farm himself, “it’s about being able to touch backward and then move forward.”

Read the full article about multigenerational farming by Danielle Nierenberg at Food Tank.